Iraqi-born architect Alaa Said, who studied at the Oslo School of Architecture (AHO), has spent more than two decades restoring Fez’s historic houses. Below, in a centuries-old courtyard, visitors work on small looms under the patient guidance of an artisan. At Riad Laaroussa or Dar Bensouda, hammams fill with orange blossom-scented steam offering a soothing pause after a day in the medina.
#MarocVuDuCiel, Extraits: Ifrane, Fès, Meknès, Moulay Idriss, Volubilis
Traditionally these would contain turmeric (yellow), indigo (blue), mint (green), henna (orange) and crushed poppy (red), although chemical dyes tend to be used today. This is beautiful on its own terms, but also gives you a better view of the mosque’s courtyard and stone minarets. The 9th century mosque went through two expansions in the 12th century and the 18th century and is stunning for its endless arcades, marble fountains, blue and white zellige and delicate stucco work. University of al-Qarawiyyin is still highly regarded in the Muslim world, and while the modern university has been relocated to a newer part of the city, the library and mosque are still couched in the Medina. Fez grew up around the oldest continually operating institution of higher education in the world, founded in 859.
The entrance of the former Royal Palace of Fez
Rachid still grills smoky kefta to pack into khobz (bread) fresh from the oven, and on the small square by Mosquée El Qaffazine, locals tuck into some of the city’s best lobia (white beans stewed with turmeric) and addis (lentils stewed with tomatoes, paprika and cumin). The day begins with a market tour in Rcif, sampling local specialties before returning to a tranquil private house to cook. Set in a 19th-century Andalusian-style palace, the Dar Batha Museum has reopened after major renovation, offering a thoughtful journey through Fez’s history from its medieval foundations to modern times. Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah University is a public university founded in 1975 and is the largest in the city by attendance, counting over 86,000 students in 2020.
When in Fez, we adjusted to the city within two to three days. Attractions in Fez are cheaper than in Marrakech, but there is much more hassle from the local vendors. Most first-timers walk all day on these two streets; we did too, and crossed between them via the rainbow-painted lane and side passages that feel like time tunnels.
The festival offers exceptional concerts, intercultural encounters and magical atmospheres that resonate throughout the medina. Although the mechanism no longer works today, it remains a rare testimony to the scientific ingenuity of the Merinid era. In Fez, the hammam is an integral part of local daily life. Fondouk Barka also offers an immersion in the commercial history of Fès. The site houses a weapons museum, which was being restored at the time of our visit, and is now a cultural attraction open to the public.
We enjoyed this season for long strolls through the medina and cultural visits without the heavy summer heat. You can expect rainy days and lower temperatures between 15°C (59°F) and 18°C (64.4°F). Fès abounds in excellent restaurants, from popular gargotes to gourmet eateries set in historic riads.
Explore the Medina of Fez, a thousand-year-old labyrinth and the oldest in the world
In 1981, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designated Medina of Fez a World Heritage Site, describing it as “one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world.” It was the first site in Morocco to be granted this status. Fes el-Bali is the oldest continuously inhabited walled city in the Arab world, and one of the largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones (car-free areas) in the whole world. Established in 1992, it is only 1.6 square kilometres (0.62 sq mi) in extent, and recorded a population of 20,560 in the 2014 census. The municipality of Fez has an area of 94 square kilometres (36 sq mi) and recorded a population of 1,091,512 in the 2014 Moroccan census. Like the inhabitants of other historical urban centers in Morocco, Ahl Fes (أهل فاس “the people of Fes,” referring especially to old elite families) speak their own distinct dialect of Darija. Northwest of the Middle Atlas mountains, Fez has a hot-summer Mediterranean climate (Köppen climate classification Csa) with a strong continental influence, shifting from relatively cool and wet in the winter to dry and hot days in the summer months between June and September.
We have seen people also doing Fez in a day, or using it as a base for visiting orls around. Two days in Fez are perfect, did four nights split between two riads within the medina. We tracked every dirham across Morocco; Fez sat in the middle for costs and was great for everyday eats.
The Borj Nord is designed after the Portuguese gun forts of the period, and had the dual purpose of defending Fes el-Bali, but also keeping the unruly population of the city under control. One of the most striking defensive features on the Medina’s walls is this 16th-century Saaid dynasty fortress towering over the city from the north and visible for miles. Note the cedar wood doors, which have been smoothed by pilgrims kissing and stroking their surface over the centuries. The shrine, sitting below the tallest minaret in Old Fez, was built between 1717 and 1824, and is mainly for Fez residents, although visiting practising Muslims can also enter the mausoleum.
- The two cities were united in 1070 and the name Fās was used for the combined site.
- Fez reached its zenith in the Marinid era (13th–15th centuries), regaining its status as political capital.
- We tracked every dirham across Morocco; Fez sat in the middle for costs and was great for everyday eats.
- Take a glimpse at the dazzling exterior of the royal palace.
- The municipality of Fez has an area of 94 square kilometres (36 sq mi) and recorded a population of 1,091,512 in the 2014 Moroccan census.
- Iraqi-born architect Alaa Said, who studied at the Oslo School of Architecture (AHO), has spent more than two decades restoring Fez’s historic houses.
Still, it’s one of the top-rated options, offering private rooms with an en-suite bathroom. The night’s sleep was great, breakfast was included, and it’s suitable for mid-budget travellers. The big lesson—sleep just outside the chaos, park once, and walk around. This is a quick one and two day itinerary in Fez, highlighting the best things to do. Meknes, Ifrane, and Chefchaouen are popular day trips.
Is it worth visiting Fez vs Marrakech?
While new colonial policies preserved historic monuments, they stalled urban development in fez bet heritage areas. The creation of the separate French Ville Nouvelle to the west had a wider impact on the entire city’s development. This was part of a larger “policy of association” adopted by Lyautey which favoured various forms of indirect colonial rule by preserving local institutions and elites, in contrast with other French colonial policies that had favoured “assimilation”. A number of social and physical changes took place during this period and across the 20th century. The expansion separated the Moulay Abdallah neighbourhood to the northwest from the rest of Fes Jdid. Both cities changed hands multiple times until the internecine conflict finally ended in 1627.
The Moroccan Jewish community had initially consisted of indigenous local Jews (known as the Toshavim) but these were joined by Western Sephardic Jews fleeing from the Iberian Peninsula (known as the Megorashim) in subsequent generations, especially after the 1492 expulsion of Jews from Spain and 1496 expulsion of Jews from Portugal. The exact date and circumstances of its formation are not firmly established, but many scholars date the transfer of the Jewish population from Fes el-Bali to the new Mellah to the 15th century, a period of political tension and instability. The Jewish quarter of Fez, the Mellah, was created in Fes Jdid at some point during the Marinid period. Following the revolt, Abu Yusuf Yaqub founded Fes Jdid as the new administrative and military centre. Following another successful invasion by Buluggin ibn Ziri in 979 and a brief period of Fatimid control, the forces of Al-Mansur of Cordoba managed to retake the region again, expelling the Fatimids permanently. The city, along with much of northern Morocco, continued to change hands between the proxies of Córdoba and the proxies of the Fatimids for many decades.
Carts piled with seasonal fruits trundle by medieval, zellige-tiled fountains; schoolchildren dart through archways worn smooth by centuries of footsteps; so many minarets puncture the skyline. Rather, it’s an intricate maze that seemingly defies logic, until revealing itself layer by layer. In 2013, it became the Private University of Fez ar, the city’s first private university. It became a state university in 1963, and remains an important institution of learning today.
Climb to the Merinid tombs for a breathtaking view of Fez
- Marvel at the majestic Royal Palace during this historical tour of Fes.
- Apart from that, Fez has a lot more to offer, and you can concentrate on some of the best highlights in one day if you’re rushing out.
- We felt safe walking the spines and main cross-passages by day and early evening.
- This was part of a larger “policy of association” adopted by Lyautey which favoured various forms of indirect colonial rule by preserving local institutions and elites, in contrast with other French colonial policies that had favoured “assimilation”.
- A real “coup de cœur” of our stay, we were captivated by this city with its 137 mosques in the medina and its ancestral tanneries perpetuating a unique know-how.
- Set in a 19th-century Andalusian-style palace, the Dar Batha Museum has reopened after major renovation, offering a thoughtful journey through Fez’s history from its medieval foundations to modern times.
This mosque, up steps from the tanneries, goes back to the very birth of the city in the 9th century, which puts it among the oldest mosques in the world. Borj Sud was constructed in the same period, but unlike its sibling it retains its simple square silhouette, without corner bastions. The alleys in Fez are as tangled as the centuries-old calligraphy, tilework and stucco that adorns the city’s palaces, mosques, madrasas and shrines. The outdoor parking lot opposite Bab Chorfa and the one behind Bab Boujloud are the most convenient options for visiting the historic center. Discover Meknes by including it in a guided day tour with a local guide.
Visit early or late in the day to see this beautiful space at its quietest. It’s also one of the few religious sites in Fes that can be entered by non-Muslim people. Because of its location, it’s easy to visit while wandering through the medina. Continuing the color theme is the adjoining mosque, with its breathtaking green minaret that is visible across the medina. The Bou Inania Madrasa is an iconic religious building in the center of the medina.
Don’t leave without having tasted the city’s gastronomy, reputed to be one of the best in the world. Along the way, he shares stories of the landscape, pausing for views and small touches that make the day memorable, such as tea brewed on the spot and a hammock slung between trees. Famille Berrada and Salah Canteen, in the Achabine Souks, are local lunchtime favorites and still draw the crowds who want to sit down in comfort, but you’ll have the most fun hopping from stall to stall sampling different foods. The Attarine, near the Karaouiyine Mosque, dazzles with intricate zellige, stucco and Kufic calligraphy, while the Cherratine, built later, is austere and contemplative, its narrow cells once housing theology students. Set in a relaxed, authentic atmosphere, it’s an immersion into the flavors and rhythms of Moroccan home cooking.
The experience invites you to observe daily life through a creative lens capturing moments that reveal the city’s rhythm, history and authentic Fassi spirit. Join photographer and cultural entrepreneur Omar Chennafi on a curated photography tour blending visual exploration with cultural insight. Culture Vultures also offers guided textile, pottery and craft quests lasting from three to 15 days, that take you deep into the heart of Morocco’s ancestral traditions. You’ll learn a few Arabic phrases, common gestures and local etiquette, and get the chance to ask about everything from henna rituals to faux guides, politics and religion helping you move through the city with confidence and respect. Café Clock has long been a cultural hub in Fez, known for its camel burger, live music and storytelling nights.
Further south is the town of Sefrou, while the city of Meknes, the next largest city in the region, is located to the southwest. The city is divided between its historic medina (the two walled districts of Fes el-Bali and Fes Jdid) and the now much larger Ville Nouvelle (New City) along with several outlying modern neighbourhoods. Austerity measures led to several riots and uprisings across other cities during the 1980s.